Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Return from Las Vegas Trip - Lower Antelope Canyon

Curves of Lower Antelope Canyon
I love living in the Southwest.  As a photographer, I don't think there are many other places in the world that offer such a diverse array of exciting, interesting, unique, and amazing locations to shoot.  This is especially true if you like shooting landscapes.  There are deserts, mountains, lakes, canyons, waterfalls, sun, storms, snow, trees, clouds, and on and on, and the vastness of it all seems a little bit greater in the Southwest. 

None of this prepared me for my first trip to Antelope Canyon.  I have wanted to go to a slot canyon for several years now, ever since I got serious about photography.  Slot canyons are well known to landscape photographers, one of those jewels that seem to be a badge of honor on your list of credentials, as if you can't call yourself a landscape photographer if you haven't been to one.  I do not really believe that, but nonetheless it is something that I had high on my list.

Antelope Canyon map.  Page, AZ is on the left, the facility on the right is the Navajo power plant, and right where the orange pin is is the start of the canyon, which goes north from there
Antelope Canyon is generally regarded as the best slot canyon around.  It is actually two separate canyons, an Upper and Lower, on Navajo Indian land just outside of Page, AZ.  The Upper is the more popular, and there are stories out there of people packed shoulder to shoulder going through it.  Not what I was looking for if I want to take my time and get some images.  The lower canyon is just across the road from the other, longer, and has fewer visitors due to the fact it has several levels to it and requires navigating some stairs and ledges.  They also offer a photographer's pass at the lower canyon, which allows you free roaming access for up to 2 hours inside.  Makes my choice an easy one.

The entrance to Lower Antelope Canyon (Iphone shot)
After I paid my admission fee ($26), a guide led me to the entrance.  He explained the rules (no food, littering, climbing, defacing, urinating, etc.) and told me how the canyon is considered sacred to the Navajo people.  He stopped in the middle of a sand arroyo and pointed me to a small crack in the ground, and said have fun.  I could not believe this was the entrance!  Just a small crack in the ground, barely big enough to squeeze through, but after taking the first flight of stairs down, it was obvious what the draw was.  From the outside, one would never expect to find such beautiful shapes and colors down below.
Lower Antelope Canyon path
 The canyon, like most canyons, is formed by water, the rainwater from summer thunderstorms that washes down the hills and forces it way into the cracks.  As a result of how narrow the slot canyons are, flash flooding is a major safety issue.  In 1997, 11 people died in a flash flood in this very canyon when the thunderstorms came too quickly and they couldn't escape the canyon in time.  Since this tragedy, strict guidelines have been put into place for when to close the canyon and safety measures are throughout, including water rescue boxes along the top that have rope and other life saving gear inside.
Lower Antelope Canyon, looking up from the bottom
Photographing inside is amazing.  Almost every direction you look there is a new angle to capture or a new formation that intrigues.  In general, tripods are a must, most of my exposures were a couple seconds long.  Even looking up, the colors and shapes are beautiful, as long as you avoid getting what would turn out to be a very blown out sky in the frame.
Just a hint of sky in Lower Antelope Canyon
There were a few people that came through while I was inside, but everyone was courteous and we all took turns taking pictures for others or getting out of the way of a shot.  I was in the canyon from about 10:30 till 12:00 in the morning, and the light was fantastic.  Because of the depth of the canyons and the small openings at the top, the best time is during midday, exactly the opposite of your typical landscape hours. 
The canyons are carved out of red sandstone, and constantly changing
 During certain times of the day, the canyon can have light beams shinning all the way down to the canyon floor.  These light beams are a very popular photographic subject, but I was too early in the year to get these, which are best in the summer months right around noon.  Throwing a handful of sand in the light beam helps to make it stand out, and can lead to some very dramatic images.  Just means I'll have to go back some other time!
A natural arch that has been formed in the canyon
Distant walls of the canyon play peekaboo through this keyway
I had a fantastic time inside Lower Antelope Canyon.  There is an abundance of slot canyon images out there, and now I can add mine to the mix.  While it is not a totally unique location because of it's popularity, shooting the slot canyons is more than just getting some images of something no one else has seen.  It is an experience, where each turn of the corner in the canyon provides a new, fantastic perspective to take in and capture for myself.  Being inside the magical place, one so hidden from above, is what I cherished about the experience, and the images I brought back are just an added benefit that I can share with others who have not had the pleasure of experiencing the slot canyons.

Happy Shooting!

Friday, March 23, 2012

Return from Las Vegas Trip - Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend in the morning near Page, AZ
Horseshoe Bend is one of those places that has been visited and photographed by so many people, yet if you have the chance, you must go and see it for yourself.  The bend itself is where the Colorado River makes a full 180 degree turn around a bluff, with sheer canyon walls all around.  It is just outside Page, AZ, south of Lake Powell about 10 miles and North of the Grand Canyon.

There are varying opinions and tips on when to shoot Horseshoe Bend.  I read about shooting it in morning light, midday light, afternoon light, at night, at dusk, at dawn, and on and on.  The deep canyon walls make for some tricky lighting conditions, and HDR or exposure blending is a common method for dealing with this.  After reading up, I decided to head out to the location and capture Horseshoe Bend in the early morning dawn, before the sun came up. 

I had one small hiccup with this plan.  I used "The photographer's ephemeris" app on my iphone to look up the time of the sunrise for Monday, March 12th in Page AZ, 6:40 AM.  I woke up at 6, grabbed my gear and some drinks and snacks and headed down the road from my hotel about 10 miles to the turn off for the trail.  Along the way I noticed it was still pretty dark out, no signs of the sun coming up, but the sky was overcast and I figured I just needed to give it some time.  I brought a flashlight with me and began the hike, which was a little scary in the dark, as I had never been on the trail before and couldn't see more than 30 ft. in front of me.  Knowing somewhere ahead was a shear cliff with a dropoff of several hundred feet, the darkness was not my friend.  I eventually made it to the edge of the cliff about 6:20 AM, and still no sign of the sun. 
Setup ready to get some shots (taken with iphone)
 So I waited, and waited.  Finally as I was looking on my iphone I realized that the sunrise time I got from the app had not taken into account the change in daylight savings time that had occured the day before!  I was an hour early for the sunrise.  So I waited some more.  I heard lots of wildlife sounds during the wait, including an owl nearby and several different coyote howls in the area.  A little spooky, but at the same time it was such a peaceful wait I had, no people or buildings around, at such an amazing spot, surrounded by nature.  Eventually the Eastern sky started to lighten and I was able to scout the area and see the full scale of Horseshoe Bend.  Breathtaking! 

Eventually, several other photographers made their way down the trail, and we all claimed a spot around the rim of the cliffs.  Horseshoe Bend is a place that doesn't lend itself to a variety of angles and different shooting positions.  Because of the size of the bend, almost every image I have seen of it is taken with a wide angle lens to get the whole scene in the frame.  After all, just getting part of the river in the frame would not make a unique image, it would just be a picture of a river! 
The view to the East of the sunrise, with Horseshoe Bend directly behind the camera
 I spent the next hour or so taking a variety of shots.  We were all hoping for the sun to peak through the cloud cover and light up the Vermillion Cliffs, off in the distance behind the Bend, with some nice warm morning light, but we had no such luck.  There was some nice light off in the distance though towards Lake Powell though, which I spent some time shooting with my telephoto lens.
Morning light looking towards Page, AZ and Lake Powell

Looking back down the trail at Horseshoe Bend from the top of the trail (taken with iphone)
My visit to Horseshoe Bend was fantastic, and if you are in the area you have to go.  It is a truly unique Southwestern destination, and something you have to see with your own eyes.  Next up is a post on Antelope Canyon!

Happy Shooting!

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Returning From Las Vegas Trip - Zion National Park

The route I took back from Vegas to Albuquerque over 2 days, with a stay overnight in Page, AZ
My wife and I were in Vegas for the MWC basketball tourney recently (Go Lobos!).  After spending three days there, she was going to go visit her family in California for a week, so I had a few days to spend returning to Albuquerque and decided to make a photography trip out of it.  After doing some research and planning, I decided five places on the way back I had never had a chance to photograph but had heard so much about:  Valley of Fire State Park in NV, Zion National Park in UT, Horseshoe Bend and Antelope canyon near Page, AZ, and Shiprock in NM.  What a trip it was, 759 miles, loads of photography, and some very desolate, beautiful places!

I headed out Sunday morning and drove through Lake Mead Recreational Area and Valley of Fire State Park.  Cool places, stayed tuned for more on them later, but my big fish for the day was to get to Zion by mid afternoon and have some time to do a hike or two.  I finally made it around 3pm, and couldn't wait!  I had not done any serious photography since the beginning of the year, so I was itching more than usual to get some shots.
Panorama just inside the park entrance.  The actual Zion Canyon, where the scenic drive and hiking trails are, is right in the middle
 Zion is one of the best national parks to hike in, with over 20 trails easily accesible and many other backcountry hikes waiting for the more adventurous.  I took the short scenic drive back into the canyon until I could not go anymore, and headed off on the riverwalk hike, an easy paved trail along the Virgin River in some of the most scenic parts of the park.
Zion canyon and the Virgin River
I spent the next two hours exploring the canyon along the trail and setting up numerous shots.  This time of the year is not the most scenic per se, with spring not yet kicking in so all the trees are barren, but the scenery was breathtaking nonetheless.  A tripod was a must for this, most of the canyon is in deep shadows and requires long exposures and/or exposure blending several shots together.  There were quite a few people out in the great weather, mostly families and lots of small children.
Near the end of the hike the river had a series of small waterfalls and gentle pools
Close-up of a series of waterfalls along the Virgin River
I finally came to the end of the trail, which is also the start of a new hike and area called "The Narrows".  The Narrows is probably the most well known hike in the park and entails hiking for large portions in the Virgin River, which winds through an increasingly narrow section of the canyon wall-to-wall.  Wetsuits and special gear is required for this hike, and it is strenuous considering the loose footing and battling against currents of the river.  It is on my bucket list now after seeing part of it in person!
The beginning of The Narrows in Zion National Park
Once I got back to the car, it was 5:30pm and I still had a 3 hour drive to Page, AZ that night, so this was the only hike I got to do unfortunately.  I would have loved to have more time in the park to explore, but enjoyed the couple hours I did get and am looking forward to going back in the future. 

Up next, I'm working on separate posts for both horseshoe bend and Antelope Canyon.  Stay tuned for these soon!

Happy Shooting!